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I did 30 days in japan about 6 or 7 years ago so things change, but my route was to fly in to / start in Tokyo. Got a rail pass so shinkansen was easy - darted south and began in Hiroshima and made my way north from there, eventually ending up back in Tokyo to fly out.
Osaka was easily my favorite place, but even the major cities have their individual charms (Kyoto has height restrictions on buildings so it's a much smaller 'big city'... I loved Hiroshima as well.
Kobe is cool, eat the meat obviously. There's also the hakutsuru distillery there which has a neat little museum/tour of their processes of making sake throughout history.
Getting out to Fuji takes time and I stayed in a little town outside the mountain but in view of it (Kawaguchiko) and it's a nice respite from the major impact / sensory overloads of the urban areas. Also the mountain is quite beautiful.
If you have the rail pass and time, Nagano is a neat place but I wasn't really enthralled by it, however it does offer an opportunity to see a more standard Japanese experience.
Oh, and Miyajima is cool and has the famous floating gate ... also is an island with a ton of deer that just hang out. It looks like they're going to begin renovation on the gate in June of this year so if you're going there soon I'd hit it up before the scaffolding takes over.