Flooring/carpentry help

Out of context: Reply #25

  • Started
  • Last post
  • 26 Responses
  • nocomply0

    That diagram shows exactly what's going on. I don't deny that it's unsafe, but what would the alternative be?

    nocomply 0Permalink
    UpvoteDownvote
    Flag
    • There really isn't one with floating floors like laminate.ETM
    • When you redo it down the line, use real hardwood that is fastened to the sub-floor, then you can use proper, flush nosings/treads.ETM
    • i agree but in the mean time there are safe solutions that wouldn't look terrible and would function well enough. safety first guysterry_cloth
    • like i said, cut the ends of the boards into a nice straight line, cut down your riser, get a piece of hardwood nosing, rip it to the right length, drop that puterry_cloth
    • -ppy in and deal with any gaps that open up as they appearterry_cloth
    • "Deal with any gaps" how? You're solution is not viable for floating floors.ETM
    • Is the overlap nosing undesirable... yes. Your solutions, however, will only cause new issues.ETM
    • refer to the previous post. i explain why this is not an issueterry_cloth
    • You're simply wrong on how laminate expands and contracts. It's glued sawdust, not real wood grain. I come from a family of trades and probably laid a footballETM
    • field worth of this shit myself. Let alone engineered wood and both pre-finished and site finished hardwood.ETM
    • You seem to think mdf expands like real wood grain, more across the grain then the length. But you don't know what you are talking about. You assembled theETM
    • laminate planks into a square room, it'll expand and contract evenly in all 4 directions assuming a significant weight isn't pinning it down on one end.ETM
    • You're giving advice against the nature of the product, without even seeing or knowing the site conditions in an attempt to look knowledgable and you're givingETM
    • shit advice to a DIYer that could compromise his whole floor.ETM
    • It he is concerned about the trip hazard, he should get a local flooring pro to evaluate the actual conditions/options.ETM
    • you missed the point. the point is that the floating floor is not going to heave and bow if it's tight to a flush nosing perpendicularly. it may open up a littlterry_cloth
    • e when it eventually contracts but it won't lift up because of itterry_cloth
    • just because you have done something one way a million times doesn't mean you have a conceptual understanding sufficient to alter the procedure. think outside tterry_cloth
    • he box for a second. his floor would not heave and be ruined, you are being melodramatic and acting like the way you were taught is some kind of dogmatic cannonterry_cloth
    • neither or us has seen the site conditions but it's better to come up with a creative solution and ruin your cheap ass floor than leave a trip hazard. as far asterry_cloth
    • you guessing my motivations, don't go there mr. mdf, i did real carpentry with real wood so don't lecture meterry_cloth
    • *edit: potentially ruin your cheap ass floorterry_cloth
    • *facepalmETM
    • in your professional opinion can you tell me honestly that perpendicularly pressing against a tight fitting nosing will cause floor failure or just an eventualterry_cloth
    • 1/8th inch gapterry_cloth
    • If the short side locking mechanism of the planks is a 'drop to lock' style instead of 'angle to lock', you can have issues, even with the orientation ofETM
    • the boards you highlight. It may be less likely than failure along the long side, but it can happen, especially since you have no idea what the expansion spaceETM
    • is on the opposite side without seeing in person.ETM
    • You assume the floor will contract, saying an eventual gap. Depending on season, location and humidity, the floor could instead expand that 1/8 to 1/4 inch.ETM
    • I'm not hear defending the "quality" of laminate floors, just their realities.ETM
    • *hear = hereETM
    • fair enough. i'd take that over a 1?4 inch lip in front of my split level star, i can't imagine who would float a floor down an entire staircase, have you everterry_cloth
    • installed one of those, is that doneterry_cloth
    • Prefer to color match real wood treads, if possible. But when laminate is on a stairs, you use adhesive. You can't float that there. Death trap.ETM
    • I would think soterry_cloth
    Show [[ numHiddenNotes ]] more notesAdd Note
    SaveCancel

View thread