Camera suggestions Photo
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- Continuity0
Alternately, save just a couple of months longer, and get either a 6D with the 24-105 as a kit lens, or a 5D3 with the same lens. That way, you get all of the benefits of having a general purpose lens like the 24-105, with all of benefits of having a full frame body at the 24mm focal length.
- I like that suggestion...no idea how much it costs, but 1 good body w/ 1 good lens is the best start, imhoformed
- It's the decision I wish I'd made before I got my 7D. :\Continuity
- formed0
I'd still get the 24-105 and plan on upgrading to full frame sometime soon. I know a bunch of pros that shoot with the 24-105.
I shot fashion with a 28-74 on a crop sensor for two years with no problems.
But what Cont is saying is something to consider, if you don't plan on an upgraded body in the next year or so.
- Continuity0
Benny, in your shoes, instead of the 24-105, I would consider getting either:
- 14mm L*
- 16-35mm L*
- 17-40mm L
- EF-S 17-55mm*Be prepared to fork out a lot of dosh for these two, new.
The reason being that the 60D is a cropped-sensored animal (1.6x FOVCF), so the 24-105 at the low end reason isn't going to be that wide at all, more like 38mm. Not exacty great for these wide landscapes you want to shoot.
All of the glass I've listed is superb, even the EF-S one; most reviews I've read say it should be an L lens, the image quality is that good. The downside to that EF-S lens is that if ever you decide to go full-frame Canon (5D3, 6D) you can't use it.
That said, the most affordable of the L lenses above is the 17-40mm. Great value for money, that one but - like all zooms - barrel distortion can be a cunt at the low end. You have to spend a bit of time in post correcting it.
- Also, unless I'm very much mistaken, the EF-S 17-55 isn't weather-sealed.Continuity
- deathboy0
I'd say go with a sigma 18-35 1.8. Sharp. Fast. Lens of the year. I just bought one off ebay from a dealer who just got them in stock. Now there's only one left! See a lot of people talking about primes and the thing is suppose to be as sharp or sharper than most primes in its range.
- like bought i mean i clicked buy before posting. I didn't want to mention it until i ordered mine :)deathboy
- Based on what I've seen online, it's not sharper than primes.nb
- dxomark suggests otherwise. stacks up better than a 50 1.2. anyways guess its already sold.deathboy
- but tough to comapre a zoom to a prime. probably have to choose a focal length and stopdeathboy
- HijoDMaite0
I just picked up the 50mm 1.4 off craigslist this morning (second time buying it)
I have the 70D + Canon 24-105mm + Canon 50mm 1.4
No I have a walk around lens during good light and a fast prime (50mm 1.4) for when the light goes down and when I want beautiful Bokeh.
Your 50mm 1.8 (nifty-fifty) will give you great results if you have good light to work with. Here are some examples of my nifty-fifty and my 70D:
So you see that little lens will give you plenty of sharpness. Of course these were edited in LR5 using basic techniques. So stop worrying about a prime or fast lens and just buy it, save your money for now. Learn how to use the nifty-fifty.
Now if you decide to buy the zoom "L" lens I can show you some pics off my 70D too. The only issue you will have with that lens is the fact that you will want to go wider and won't be able to. But you already have a 10-22 right? So you would be covered. Remember though when it gets dark you'll have to break out the little nifty fifty.
- Thanks hidjo! Yes show me pics with the 24-105 pleasebenfal99
- HijoDMaite0
How much are you paying for the 24-105mm f/4.0? I have a friend selling her's in perfect condition for $500
- formed0
That looks like a wise decision.
There will always be more gear to lust after ;-)
- lvl_130
anyone have/used this lens?
http://www.amazon.com/Canon-28mm…i love the 50mm 1.8...but it's so damn narrow. thinking about expanding my horizon ah chachacha
- vaxorcist0
.. and I might add a tripod + a generic flash to learn bounce flash with....the black foamy thing
http://neilvn.com/tangents/the-b…
http://neilvn.com/tangents/flash…- yes totally!
iam getting a new tripod this weekendbenfal99 - check out yongnuo flashes, cheap but decent.johnny_wobble
- cool thanks!benfal99
- yes totally!
- benfal990
I think i will stick to my Canon 60D for now and buy those two:
- Don't bother with the 50mm f1.8; get the 1.4 instead, for a couple of hundred more. Great value for money.Continuity
- benfal990
Ok, I want to do outdoor photography mainly. Like the sets you can see in my portfolio ( http://benfal.tv ) See Ireland, Iceland, Route 138 for exemples.
BUT, i also want to take portrait shots because iam into digiral art these days and want to create more project like those one i did recently :
I think the prime 50mm should do great job for those kind of portraits, no?
- colin_s0
for 2500 you could probably get the 16-35 L as well as a cheap-ish 50mm prime (both canon). although cheap primes are useless (that 1.8 50mm is a plastic joke, mine never could handle autofocus), you could probably get a used but solid L series for the rest of your cash - the 1.4 or 1.2 50mm are both pretty solid, or you could step up to the 85 ... however that's mostly a portraiture lens.
from what i see in your portfolio, you do a lot of general shooting that may not merit the 16-35's super-wide angle and may want to try and get that used for cheaper and throw down harder on a good 50 prime. but this really comes down to what you're looking to do with the camera; i rarely find occasion for anything longer than 70mm, but that's mostly because i do a lot of street / journalism stuff.
don't waste money on a digital body; they decrease in value and since the 5d mark2, have hardly increased in performance or image quality (for the cost). lenses are an investment, because a decent one will still get you close to asking price down the line as well.
- vaxorcist0
depends on what you want....
Fashion?
Old Canon 5D mark 1, 85mm F1.8, 50mm, F1.8, 28mm F2.8, possibly 70-200 F4 L lens, and a bunch of used Speedotron blackline or Calumet strobes + a beauty dish, light stands, clamps, reflectors, scrims, soft boxes, x-rite color card,etc...
Crazy idea, spend less on camera and more on lighting:
... maybe an Elinchrom Octobank, elinchrom strobe, Canon 5D mark 1, 2 lenses, stands, reflectors.. yes, you're spending half the $$ on that octobank, but oh, the light....etc.... could be all sorts of things...
- benfal990
with a budget of 2,500$ what equipment would you buy? a body and lenses
- formed0
it is really not that technical. It may seem technical and tedious, but once you grasp that exposure triangle thingy, you'll be set.
As always, a great photographer can take a masterpiece with an iPhone or a $50k camera. The camera makes such a small difference at the end of the day.
That said, the more you know the more you appreciate the nuances and quality that better gear gets you.
Also, it's a geeky hobby with lots of fun/cool/trivial but still fun/cool things coming out each day. Spend more time studying great photographers, composition, post/retouching, less time worrying about the gear.
- vaxorcist0
The technical side is a "common denominator" that may be a shared set of skills and understandings of the physics of light, whereas the visual/art side of photography is really up to you, and subjective...
After you've tested systematically and learned a fair bit of technique, you stop having to think about it and you almost instinctively know what to do with your camera settings/lens choice/etc in order to get a certain look in a certain situation....
I teach advanced digital photography at a local arts center, and I encourage my students to practice photography like a cello player might practice the cello, i.e. some excercises are more like "playing scales" than "creating art" and that's fine.... when you've practiced a lot, you can "play" more effortlessly....
- vaxorcist0
true.... but if it's bang for the buck, a $120 prime competes with a $1200 F2.8 zoom for images quality, though of course the prime is very, very limited.
Yes, primes are good if you control the situation, whereas if the situation controls you (like a wedding or photojournalism, or event) then you should of course keep a zoom or two in the bag.
ALSO note that sharpness depends less on lens than you think... most lenses are pretty sharp if carefully focussed at F8 or F7.1 and 100 ISO and a tripod, but that's not too convenient for many people in some situations....
learning how to use bounce flash or diffused flash is a great thing, as careful use of flash can light things so they don't look like flash, and your flash tends to contribute to "apparent sharpness", as the flash duration is 1/500th or higher usually, and things like hair or eyebrows can look really sharp with strobe, even if it's bounced or diffused....
But, in general, for "run-and-gun" photography, the $$$ 24-70/24-105 L zooms can give you nice results with less careful technique than what you may have to do to get great image sharpness out of a cheaper zoom that's F4-5.6 like that long tamron zoom.
- formed0
Not sure I completely agree about primes. I love my 50 1.4 and drool over a 85 1.4 (I rent that one), but I would never rely on those as primary lenses, just too limiting.
I use a Nikkor 24-70 2.8 as my primary lens, some of my friends use 70-200 2.8. The only people I know that rely on primes are fashion photogs that know their studio setup well in advance.
(not trying to downplay how great some are, just that it is a really experienced/specific person that shoots only primes)
Not sure about the sharpness, I've never had any problems with my Nikkor 24-70 or my Tamron 28-74 2.8 before that. Not any noticeable difference imho.
My advice: buy a versatile lens and when you know/understand more, then buy the primes you know you want. Just too limiting otherwise. Its about capturing the photo more than the lens, don't limit yourself from the get go.
As for 'better in low light', they are 'faster', but that also means your depth of field changes, which can be good or bad, but it changes the photo (not just letting more light in). Again, aim for flexibility as you learn, once you know what you want, then go specific.
- good points too! now iam all mixed up and i dont know who iam anymore! :Pbenfal99